There’s something special about a restaurant so committed to local produce that they set up their own rooftop garden to stock the kitchen. And a beehive to make their own honey. The Dairy is one such.
The interiors are charming, just homey enough to avoid feeling contrived, but with a sincere shabby chic vibe. The focus here is rightly on the food. It’s the reason why Claphamites have continued to flock here, seemingly without pause, since they opened in 2013. The Dairy serves seasonal, sensational dishes cooked with care and creativity. Buckwheat pancakes here come with smoked tomatoes and horseradish. Rhubarb is enveloped in a delicate millefeuille. Fresh honeycomb appears alongside soft Sleightlett goat’s cheese. Eel is smoked using apple wood and served with a confit of swede. And rich bone marrow agnolotti comes with wild mushrooms.
They even offer a tasting menu, should the idea of choosing between the dishes prove to be too difficult. The weekend brunch, meanwhile – all fresh-baked sourdough toast and crispy potatoes with eggs and salmon and avocado – is a perennial favourite for a reason.