Once the favoured boozer of traders from the nearby Smithfield market, it closed, ostensibly for good, back in 2006 – the meat men’s early morning breakfasts and beers not enough to keep it in business. Bought by Malmaison, they of the boutique hotel brand, the pub’s Victorian interior was recently restored and half a dozen luxury rooms opened above. Although whoever came up with their ‘Hops & Chops, Cuvees & Duvets’ catchphrase should be given a good slap, the result is that the original bar is now pewter topped and the mahogany and brass fittings have regained their lustre. There are real ales on offer alongside cocktails, champagne and claret for the City boys. Jonas Karlsson, of 5th Floor at Harvey Nichols, welcomes the new kitchen, which does solid reconstructed pub grub, from split pea and ham soup to steak and oyster pie, and you can still get a beer with your breakfast.