Marlon Abela, the man from MARC, who also owns UMU and Morton’s to name but two, relaunched this famous fine diner in 2004. When former head chef Bjorn van der Hurst defected to Gordon Ramsay, back in it early 2006, it looked bad. But under Executive chef Antonin Bonnet the restaurant has thrived. Some of the best service in London, a discreet, luxurious setting at the end of a pretty Mayfair mews and a wine list that’s quite a piece of work. “Let them loose on it,” suggests Fay Maschler, restaurant critic of The Evening Standard, should someone else be treating you. Then there’s Bonnet’s assured cooking which takes in Asian influences in dishes such as violet sea urchin, fresh Cornish crab and kombu jelly and keeps it classic with a shared dish of Dover sole meunière.