Finding a place for eating in New York that offers an atmosphere of polished ease is harder than most think. Most eateries struggle with something. Either a location that’s lacking, or a menu too ambitious, or a wait staff that’s in over its head. But not here, on the sleepy corner of Bedford and Grove, where the delightful Little Owl hits its marks on a daily basis.

With just 10 tables under its stamped ceiling, chef Joey Campanaro pours his heart into Mediterranean bistro offerings such as goat cheese gnocchi, roasted halibut with chive mashed potatoes, and a noteworthy pork chop with parmesan butter beans and wild dandelion. Brunch is a soothing affair, as sweet waiters offer French press coffee and perfect bloody Marys while you devour hollandaise-splattered poached eggs on fontina sausage buns.