Celebrating your 20th year in business with a kitchen fire (rumour has it a chef got a bit cocky cooking a steak) that, combined with planned refurbishment work, closed you down for five months is a strange way to spend your birthday. But that’s how it went down recently for Hammersmith’s ever-popular River Café, opened in 1988, and now back up and running and looking as lovely as ever after a makeover. Imagine the best Italian produce money can buy, a cost they unfortunately pass on to the customer, perfectly assembled, served in a modern glass fronted canteen, down where the old Thames does flow. Perfect setting, meets perfect produce, meets educated service and a wine list, aside from odd Champagne, that is all Italian with, assuming you stay away from the Super Tuscans, lots of bottles under £30.