The same qualities that make a Chanel suit sexy on a woman of any age keep the Rotunda, bringing the vibe of San Francisco American restaurants to the Neiman Marcus department store, on top of the lunchtime heap year after year. Décor to menu, it retains its character from a more genteel era. The tables seem to float up against the golden, glass-paneled, and ornate rotunda drifting above the light-filled foyer of the department store. Rotunda is not a place to do business, it is a place to discuss frivolous, privileged dilemmas, such as which Hermès scarf to buy. An airy, fresh-from-the-oven popover, served with Neiman’s famous strawberry butter, is the culinary equivalent of the little black dress.