There was a time when they called him Nigel ‘The Square’ Platts-Martin but the truth is the restaurateur behind this haute Mayfair operation – and La Trompette and Chez Bruce – knows The Square is really about his partnership with chef Phillip Howard. They’ve just celebrated a decade in Bruton Street, having originally opened in King Street St James’ back in 1991. Howard’s cooking, which keeps things modern French, is some of London’s finest in dishes such as the shared whole roast monkfish tail with girolles, herb macaroni and garlic. Shame a lot of it’s wasted feeding the suits on expenses. As for the celebrated wine list, food writer Tom Parker Bowles declares it less of a list and more of a beautifully chosen War and Peace of wine.””