The man who did most of the cooking at the River Café for years has now got his name on the door of this dining room at Park Lane’s Intercontinental. The room is a bit of an unlovable mutt – expensively decked-out but still somehow soulless. Not so Randall’s cooking, which has enough soul to fill the room by focusing on the finest seasonal ingredients prepared the Italian way, simply dressed and perfectly cooked. The service, unlike the site, doesn’t let the side down and, although picked by the evergreen, bearded restaurant consultant Roy Ackerman, as where to go when someone else is footing the bill, it’s considerably cheaper than the River Café. All of it gives you more firepower for the well-chosen wine list. Now, if only they could do something with that room, Randall’s cooking deserves it.