Quintessential Stockholm’ is how regulars might refer to this spot. Unpretentious, from the red chequered tablecloths to the loud chatter of locals, Tranan draws a mixed crowd, attracted by the general hustle and bustle. It is unusual for a place to be regarded as ‘cool’ by such a diverse clientele, but from hip-hop suburban kids to elderly loners clutching a newspaper, this is a favourite.
Plates come piled with mashed potatoes and steak or alternatively steaming bowls of mussels. Friendly, smiling waiters serve food from a menu they know by heart, and can talk you through every dish with great enthusiasm. The air is smoky, which might make it less appealing for some, but it does add to the laissez-faire attitude of the place. That said, it is sensible to book a table since, although relaxed, Tranan is tremendously popular.
Very reasonable prices, comfort food at its best and an all-round buzz contribute to this, as does its downstairs bar, which deserves a write-up all of its own