Adam Byatt returned to south London and Clapham in 2006 to open Trinity not far from where he’d opened his first restaurant, Thyme. A triumphant homecoming, after a difficult time in the West End, Trinity is the sort of accomplished, well-priced local restaurant everyone wishes they had on their doorstep. The dining room, decked out in chocolate and cream, is handsome, the service sweet and the wine list well pitched. Byatt meanwhile has stepped back from the small plate shtick he practised back in Thyme, although he still does a tasting menu, and these days instead does much of his cooking within a traditionally structured à la carte, be it complex combinations such as roast rump and sweetbreads of rose veal with grain mustard choucroute, runner beans and truffled cauliflower cheese; or twisted classics in fig tarte tatin with mascarpone sorbet.