The entrance to another MARC production – The Greenhouse is subtle but it’s nothing compared to this slick secretive Japanese beauty. In the corner of a quiet residential mews, its door is a sliding touch sensitive affair that can be opened by a discreet button – if you want to look cool – or – and this is how most enter first time – pawing at it like a confused child. Once inside it’s very, very quiet. It’s a Japanese restaurant unlike Nobu, Zuma or Roka in that the atmosphere comes with the food and not vice versa. There’s a lake of sake, and a sommelier to give you a guided tour around it. It’s really a very relaxing place, like Switzerland but with sake lakes and exquisite Japanese food. Which, I imagine, is what Kyoto is like.