Tucked away in a residential area of South Kensington, Yashin Ocean House is far from your average sushi restaurant; Yashin loosely translates to ‘ambitious’, and it’s hard not to agree. Applying the modern British tradition of ‘nose-to-tail’ dining to fish, what you get here is a head-to-fin approach that sees diners tuck into whole fish – heads, bones, skin and all.

Under the watchful eye of Yasuhiro Mineno (ex Ubon) and Shinya Ikeda (ex Yumi) the theatrical dishes – the exquisite omakase sushi platter arrives tableside in a cloud of scent-infused dry ice – are wonderfully subtle and intricately constructed. The grouper ceviche is even served in a bowl made from Himalayan salt. In short, this is not the sort of sushi joint in which to smother your food with wasabi and soy sauce.

Set in a light and airy dining room with a large central bar for drinks and counter-top dining, the atmosphere here is subdued, with diners preferring to keep their focus on the seafood. That said, the Sake servings are on the generous side, so you never know what might happen come dessert…