In Japanese culture, the izakaya is a stepping stone between bar and restaurant, serving a more substantial repertoire of food and snacks than a typical drinking establishment but lacking the full menu and full-service component of a regular eatery. We’re sure few izakayas in Greater Tokyo resemble Zuma, the statuesque buxom model in a population of artistically and vertically challenged Japanese dining spots. The soaring main room was designed by interior designer Noriyoshi Muramatsu, and garbed in the same earth-tone palette as its Zuma sisters in London, Dubai, Hong Kong and Istanbul. The menu, consisting of tempura, cold dishes, sushi and signature dishes, is a bit haphazard, and plates arrive when the kitchen is done preparing them as opposed to when you want them to. However, the ‘authentic but not traditional’ flavours on display are exciting. Standouts include the spicy beef tenderloin and the azami yaki option from the robata (charcoal grill) section.