If food was everything then Zuma would be one of Istanbul’s greats. The upscale Japanese restaurant chain works with such élan in London, Hong Kong and Miami and tastes just as good in Ortaköy. Like Tokyo, Turkish ingredients are top class if you’re willing to pay for them, so truly yummy octopus, sea bass, lobster and crab are blended into spider rolls, seared beef tataki, salt-grilled bream and isa ebi chilli lobster. Décor is fun, too, and guests may play musical chairs around the sushi counter, the Robata grill, the dining room and the gorgeous summer terrace on the Bosphorus shores. Even hedonists might bulk at Zuma’s price structure, however. It’s bloody expensive and many squillionaires still regard value as a sensible commodity. Staff and punters alike can be a shade too cool for school, too: the latter forgivable, the former not so. But close your eyes/ears and gulp down a spicy tuna roll, and all can be quickly forgiven.